In retrospect it wasn’t surprising that my two-year-old likes smoked eel: One of her favorite meals in New York is the sable (smoked black cod) from the miraculous fish emporium Russ and Daughters, of which she has been known to eat $5 worth at a sitting. And because she’s had a wicked case of jet lag and a hard time eating regularly, we’ve been trying to find things we know she’ll like. This means, in turn, that we’ve been hanging around the smoked fish stall at our local market. This week we bought a whole smoked Artic char, which Squishy found both incredibly funny (she made fishy faces at it and put her finger in its mouth) and enormously tasty. She did leave us some, though, and we used it to make ourselves feel at home after a rough week.